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Harvard Case - H&M in China

"H&M in China" Harvard business case study is written by Andrew Inkpen, Jonas Gamso. It deals with the challenges in the field of Business Ethics. The case study is 9 page(s) long and it was first published on : Aug 31, 2021

At Fern Fort University, we recommend that H&M prioritize a comprehensive strategy that addresses its ethical and social responsibility concerns in China, focusing on transparency, stakeholder engagement, and a robust code of conduct. This approach will strengthen its brand reputation, mitigate risks, and foster long-term sustainability in the Chinese market.

2. Background

H&M, a Swedish multinational clothing retailer, entered the Chinese market in 2007, experiencing rapid growth and becoming a popular choice among Chinese consumers. However, the company faced significant challenges related to its ethical and social responsibility practices, particularly in the wake of allegations of forced labor and environmental violations in its supply chain. These accusations led to a public backlash in China, significantly impacting H&M's brand image and sales.

The case study focuses on H&M's efforts to navigate these challenges and regain consumer trust. It highlights the complexities of operating in a rapidly growing and increasingly demanding market like China, where consumers are becoming more aware of ethical sourcing and sustainable practices.

The main protagonists of the case are:

  • H&M's management: They are tasked with navigating the ethical and social responsibility challenges in China, balancing business growth with stakeholder expectations.
  • Chinese consumers: They are increasingly aware of ethical sourcing and sustainability issues, demanding transparency and accountability from brands like H&M.
  • H&M's suppliers: They play a crucial role in ensuring ethical and sustainable practices throughout the supply chain.
  • Chinese government: They are responsible for enforcing regulations and promoting ethical business practices within the country.

3. Analysis of the Case Study

The case study can be analyzed using the Stakeholder Theory framework, which emphasizes the importance of considering the interests of all stakeholders involved in a business decision. In this case, H&M needs to balance the interests of its shareholders, consumers, employees, suppliers, and the broader community.

Key considerations for H&M:

  • Transparency: H&M must be transparent about its supply chain practices, including labor conditions, environmental impact, and ethical sourcing. This can be achieved through public reporting, audits, and engaging with stakeholders.
  • Stakeholder engagement: H&M needs to engage with its stakeholders, including consumers, suppliers, and NGOs, to understand their concerns and build trust. This can involve dialogue, collaboration, and addressing grievances.
  • Code of conduct: H&M should develop and implement a comprehensive code of conduct that outlines its ethical and social responsibility commitments. This code should be enforced throughout its supply chain and monitored regularly.
  • Regulatory compliance: H&M must comply with all applicable laws and regulations in China, including those related to labor rights, environmental protection, and data privacy.
  • Sustainability: H&M needs to adopt sustainable business practices across its operations, including sourcing materials responsibly, reducing waste, and minimizing its environmental footprint.

4. Recommendations

  1. Develop a comprehensive ethical and social responsibility strategy: This strategy should be based on a clear set of principles and values, aligned with international best practices. It should address key areas such as labor rights, environmental sustainability, supply chain transparency, and stakeholder engagement.
  2. Implement a robust code of conduct: This code should be communicated to all employees, suppliers, and partners, and enforced through regular audits and monitoring. It should address issues such as forced labor, child labor, fair compensation, workplace safety, and environmental protection.
  3. Enhance transparency and accountability: H&M should publish regular reports on its ethical and social responsibility performance, including details about its supply chain, audits, and grievance mechanisms. This information should be readily accessible to stakeholders.
  4. Strengthen stakeholder engagement: H&M should actively engage with its stakeholders, including consumers, suppliers, NGOs, and the Chinese government, to build trust and address concerns. This can involve dialogue, collaboration, and addressing grievances.
  5. Invest in sustainable business practices: H&M should invest in sustainable business practices across its operations, including sourcing materials responsibly, reducing waste, and minimizing its environmental footprint. This will enhance its brand image and contribute to a more sustainable future.

5. Basis of Recommendations

These recommendations are based on the following considerations:

  1. Core competencies and consistency with mission: H&M's core competencies lie in its fashion design, global supply chain, and retail operations. The recommendations align with its mission to offer fashionable clothing at affordable prices while also promoting ethical and sustainable practices.
  2. External customers and internal clients: The recommendations address the concerns of external customers who are increasingly demanding ethical and sustainable products. They also cater to the needs of internal clients, such as employees and suppliers, by promoting fair working conditions and ethical business practices.
  3. Competitors: By adopting a proactive approach to ethical and social responsibility, H&M can differentiate itself from competitors and gain a competitive advantage in the Chinese market.
  4. Attractiveness ' quantitative measures if applicable: The recommendations are likely to enhance H&M's brand reputation, increase consumer trust, and mitigate risks associated with ethical and social responsibility issues. These factors can contribute to improved financial performance in the long run.

6. Conclusion

H&M's success in China depends on its ability to address ethical and social responsibility concerns in a transparent and proactive manner. By implementing a comprehensive strategy that prioritizes stakeholder engagement, a robust code of conduct, and sustainable business practices, H&M can regain consumer trust, mitigate risks, and foster long-term sustainability in the Chinese market.

7. Discussion

Other alternatives not selected include:

  • Ignoring the concerns: This would be a risky strategy, as it could lead to further reputational damage and financial losses.
  • Focusing solely on legal compliance: While important, this approach would not be sufficient to address the broader ethical and social responsibility concerns of stakeholders.
  • Adopting a reactive approach: This would involve responding to concerns only after they arise, which could lead to a loss of control and damage to H&M's reputation.

Risks and key assumptions:

  • Implementation challenges: Implementing the recommendations will require significant resources, commitment, and coordination across different departments and stakeholders.
  • Cultural differences: H&M needs to be sensitive to cultural differences and navigate the complexities of operating in a diverse market like China.
  • Changing consumer expectations: Consumer expectations regarding ethical and sustainable practices are constantly evolving, requiring H&M to stay ahead of the curve.

8. Next Steps

  1. Form a dedicated team: H&M should establish a dedicated team responsible for developing and implementing the ethical and social responsibility strategy.
  2. Conduct a thorough assessment: The team should conduct a thorough assessment of H&M's current practices and identify areas for improvement.
  3. Develop a clear action plan: The team should develop a clear action plan with specific goals, timelines, and resources allocated for each initiative.
  4. Communicate the strategy: H&M should communicate the strategy to all stakeholders, including employees, suppliers, and consumers, to ensure transparency and buy-in.
  5. Monitor progress and make adjustments: H&M should regularly monitor progress, evaluate the effectiveness of its initiatives, and make adjustments as needed.

By taking these steps, H&M can demonstrate its commitment to ethical and social responsibility, rebuild trust with stakeholders, and achieve sustainable growth in the Chinese market.

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Case Description

In March 2021, the Chinese government blocked access to H&M on leading e-commerce, ride-hailing, daily-deals, and map sites. The online blocking and calls for customer boycotts were in response to H&M's September 2020 statement that it would no longer source cotton from Xinjiang because of concerns about forced labor. At the time, H&M operated more than 500 stores in China, and it was the company's fourth largest country market. How will the boycott impact the H&M brand in China? How will H&M's decision impact its brand in other markets, such as the U.S., Germany, and the UK? Should H&M change its sourcing stance in China? Which stakeholders should H&M target in its messaging? Should H&M issue new supply chain statements?

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