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Harvard Case - Worn Again Technologies: Replicating a Circular Model

"Worn Again Technologies: Replicating a Circular Model" Harvard business case study is written by Nadine de Gannes, R. Chandrasekhar. It deals with the challenges in the field of International Business. The case study is 11 page(s) long and it was first published on : Sep 19, 2023

At Fern Fort University, we recommend Worn Again Technologies (WAT) pursue a strategic internationalization strategy focused on replicating its circular model in emerging markets. This strategy should prioritize partnerships with local governments and businesses, leverage a hybrid approach of direct investment and strategic alliances, and emphasize building a strong local brand identity while maintaining WAT's core values of sustainability and ethical business practices. This approach will allow WAT to capitalize on the growing demand for sustainable solutions in emerging markets, while mitigating risks associated with entering new markets and ensuring long-term success.

2. Background

Worn Again Technologies (WAT) is a UK-based company pioneering a circular model for textile recycling. Their innovative technology transforms used clothing into virgin-quality fibers, addressing the environmental and social concerns associated with fast fashion. The case study focuses on WAT's ambitious goal of expanding its operations internationally, specifically targeting emerging markets like India and China, where textile consumption and waste are rapidly growing.

The main protagonists of the case are:

  • Tom Copley: WAT's CEO, determined to scale the company's impact by replicating its circular model globally.
  • Sarah Jones: WAT's Head of Operations, responsible for developing and implementing the international expansion strategy.
  • The Board of Directors: Responsible for overseeing the strategic direction of the company and approving major investment decisions.

3. Analysis of the Case Study

WAT's international expansion strategy can be analyzed using the Porter's Five Forces Framework to understand the competitive landscape and identify key opportunities and threats:

  • Threat of New Entrants: The textile recycling industry is attracting increasing interest, but WAT's technological advantage and strong brand reputation create a barrier to entry.
  • Bargaining Power of Suppliers: WAT relies on access to used clothing, which is readily available in emerging markets. However, securing consistent supply and negotiating favorable terms will be crucial.
  • Bargaining Power of Buyers: The demand for sustainable textiles is growing, giving WAT leverage in negotiations with buyers. However, competition from traditional textile manufacturers may limit pricing power.
  • Threat of Substitute Products: Recycled fibers face competition from virgin fibers and other sustainable alternatives. WAT needs to differentiate its product and demonstrate its value proposition.
  • Rivalry Among Existing Competitors: Competition in the textile recycling industry is increasing, but WAT's focus on innovation and circularity provides a competitive advantage.

Furthermore, WAT needs to consider the following key factors for successful international expansion:

  • Emerging Market Dynamics: Understanding the unique economic, social, and political landscape of each target market is crucial.
  • Government Policies and Regulations: Navigating local regulations related to environmental protection, waste management, and manufacturing will be essential.
  • Cultural Differences: Adapting to local cultural norms, consumer preferences, and business practices is crucial for building trust and establishing a strong brand presence.
  • Supply Chain Management: Establishing a robust and sustainable supply chain that can handle the increased volume of textile waste and ensure ethical sourcing is vital.
  • Financial Resources: Securing adequate funding for capital expenditure, operational costs, and potential risks associated with international expansion is critical.

4. Recommendations

WAT should adopt a phased approach to international expansion, starting with a pilot project in a carefully selected emerging market. This approach will allow them to test and refine their strategy, mitigate risks, and build a solid foundation for future growth.

Phase 1: Pilot Project (India)

  • Market Selection: India presents a compelling opportunity due to its large textile industry, growing demand for sustainable products, and supportive government policies.
  • Partnership Strategy: Form strategic partnerships with local businesses and government agencies to leverage existing infrastructure, expertise, and access to resources.
  • Local Manufacturing Facility: Establish a pilot manufacturing facility in India to demonstrate the viability of the circular model and build local expertise.
  • Marketing and Branding: Develop a localized marketing strategy that resonates with Indian consumers, highlighting the environmental and social benefits of WAT's technology.
  • Sustainability and Ethical Practices: Maintain a strong commitment to environmental sustainability and ethical business practices, ensuring compliance with local regulations and promoting responsible sourcing.

Phase 2: Expansion to Other Emerging Markets (China)

  • Market Research: Conduct thorough market research to identify the most promising markets for expansion, considering factors like textile consumption, government policies, and competitive landscape.
  • Strategic Alliances: Explore strategic alliances with established players in the textile industry to leverage their existing infrastructure, distribution networks, and market access.
  • Replicating the Circular Model: Adapt the circular model to suit the specific needs and regulations of each new market, while maintaining core principles of sustainability and ethical practices.
  • Global Brand Management: Maintain a consistent brand identity across all markets, while adapting marketing messages and communication strategies to resonate with local audiences.
  • Continuous Innovation: Invest in research and development to improve the efficiency and effectiveness of the circular model, stay ahead of the competition, and address evolving market needs.

5. Basis of Recommendations

These recommendations are based on the following considerations:

  • Core Competencies and Consistency with Mission: The recommendations align with WAT's core competencies in textile recycling technology and its mission to promote sustainable and ethical practices in the fashion industry.
  • External Customers and Internal Clients: The recommendations address the needs of both external customers seeking sustainable textile solutions and internal clients seeking to expand the company's reach and impact.
  • Competitors: The recommendations acknowledge the growing competition in the textile recycling industry and emphasize the need for innovation, differentiation, and strategic partnerships to maintain a competitive edge.
  • Attractiveness: The recommendations focus on emerging markets with high growth potential, aligning with WAT's ambition to scale its impact and contribute to a more sustainable future.

6. Conclusion

By adopting a phased approach to international expansion, focusing on strategic partnerships, and prioritizing sustainability and ethical practices, WAT can successfully replicate its circular model in emerging markets. This strategy will allow WAT to capitalize on the growing demand for sustainable solutions, mitigate risks associated with entering new markets, and establish a strong global presence while staying true to its core values.

7. Discussion

Other alternatives not selected include:

  • Direct Investment Only: This approach would require significant capital investment and could expose WAT to greater financial risks, especially in unfamiliar markets.
  • Franchising: While franchising can be a cost-effective option, it may lead to inconsistency in quality and brand image, potentially diluting WAT's core values.

Key assumptions of the recommended strategy include:

  • Government Support: Continued government support for sustainable initiatives and textile recycling in emerging markets.
  • Consumer Demand: Sustained growth in consumer demand for sustainable and ethically produced textiles.
  • Technological Advancement: Continued advancements in textile recycling technology to maintain a competitive edge.

8. Next Steps

To implement the recommended strategy, WAT should take the following steps:

  • Phase 1 (India):
    • Timeline: 12-18 months
    • Key Milestones:
      • Secure funding for pilot project.
      • Identify and partner with local businesses and government agencies.
      • Establish a pilot manufacturing facility in India.
      • Launch marketing campaign targeting Indian consumers.
  • Phase 2 (Expansion):
    • Timeline: 24-36 months
    • Key Milestones:
      • Conduct market research to identify suitable markets for expansion.
      • Explore strategic alliances with established players in the textile industry.
      • Adapt the circular model to suit the specific needs of each new market.
      • Develop global brand management strategy.
      • Invest in research and development to stay ahead of the competition.

By following these steps, WAT can successfully navigate the complexities of international expansion and achieve its vision of transforming the global textile industry towards a more sustainable and ethical future.

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Case Description

In June 2022, the chief executive officer (CEO) of Worn Again Technologies (Worn Again), a polymer recycling technology company based in London, United Kingdom, was examining the way forward with a new technology that the company had developed and fine-tuned. The technology had been tested successfully at the company's demonstration plant in Switzerland and was capable of processing fifty thousand tons of material per year. The CEO now needed to find new markets where the technology could be set up and scaled for commercialization.

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