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Harvard Case - Balancing Exclusivity and Sustainability in the Luxury Fashion Industry: #Burnberry

"Balancing Exclusivity and Sustainability in the Luxury Fashion Industry: #Burnberry" Harvard business case study is written by Tessel Willemstein, Carla Gatt, Vidhi Chaudhri. It deals with the challenges in the field of Business Ethics. The case study is 21 page(s) long and it was first published on : Feb 20, 2020

At Fern Fort University, we recommend that Burberry adopt a comprehensive strategy to balance exclusivity and sustainability, prioritizing transparency, ethical sourcing, and stakeholder engagement. This approach will involve a multi-pronged effort to address the concerns raised by the #Burnberry campaign while strengthening the brand's long-term reputation and market position.

2. Background

The case study revolves around Burberry, a luxury fashion brand facing criticism for its unsustainable practices, including the burning of unsold inventory. The #Burnberry campaign, launched on social media, brought these issues to the forefront, highlighting concerns about environmental impact, ethical sourcing, and corporate social responsibility.

The main protagonists are:

  • Marco Gobbetti: Burberry's CEO, tasked with navigating the brand through this crisis and implementing a sustainable strategy.
  • The #Burnberry Campaign: A collective of consumers and activists raising awareness about Burberry's unsustainable practices.
  • Burberry's Stakeholders: Including employees, investors, suppliers, customers, and the broader community, all impacted by the brand's decisions.

3. Analysis of the Case Study

This case study can be analyzed using the Stakeholder Theory, which emphasizes the importance of balancing the interests of all stakeholders in business decisions. The #Burnberry campaign highlights the growing power of consumers and activists in holding corporations accountable for their actions.

Key Issues:

  • Sustainability: Burberry's practice of burning unsold inventory is environmentally unsustainable and wasteful.
  • Transparency: The lack of transparency regarding sourcing practices and environmental impact raised concerns about ethical sourcing and corporate responsibility.
  • Social Responsibility: The #Burnberry campaign exposed a disconnect between Burberry's luxury image and its social responsibility practices.
  • Stakeholder Engagement: The campaign highlighted the need for better communication and engagement with stakeholders, particularly consumers and activists.

Strategic Considerations:

  • Corporate Strategy: Burberry needs to integrate sustainability into its core business strategy, aligning it with its brand values and long-term goals.
  • Operations Strategy: The company must optimize its supply chain and inventory management to reduce waste and improve efficiency.
  • Marketing Strategy: Burberry needs to communicate its sustainability efforts transparently to regain consumer trust and attract environmentally conscious customers.

4. Recommendations

Short-Term Actions:

  • Immediate Transparency: Publicly disclose the company's environmental impact and sourcing practices, including a detailed report on the volume of unsold inventory destroyed.
  • Commit to Zero Waste: Implement a comprehensive plan to eliminate the practice of burning unsold inventory, exploring alternative solutions like donation, recycling, or upcycling.
  • Engage with Stakeholders: Host open forums and dialogues with consumers, activists, and other stakeholders to address concerns and gather feedback.

Long-Term Strategies:

  • Develop a Sustainable Business Model: Implement a circular economy approach, prioritizing sustainable materials, reducing waste, and extending the lifespan of products.
  • Ethical Sourcing: Establish a robust ethical sourcing policy, ensuring fair labor practices, environmental compliance, and responsible sourcing of raw materials.
  • Transparency and Accountability: Implement a system of transparency and accountability, including regular reporting on sustainability performance and progress towards goals.
  • Invest in Innovation: Invest in research and development to create sustainable materials and processes, driving innovation in the luxury fashion industry.
  • Promote Ethical Leadership: Cultivate a culture of ethical leadership throughout the organization, empowering employees to champion sustainability and responsible practices.

5. Basis of Recommendations

These recommendations are based on the following considerations:

  • Core Competencies and Consistency with Mission: The recommendations align with Burberry's core competencies in luxury fashion and its potential to lead the industry in sustainability.
  • External Customers and Internal Clients: Addressing the concerns of consumers and activists while creating a more ethical and sustainable working environment for employees.
  • Competitors: Burberry can gain a competitive advantage by positioning itself as a leader in sustainable luxury fashion.
  • Attractiveness: The recommendations are expected to improve Burberry's brand reputation, attract environmentally conscious consumers, and enhance long-term profitability.

6. Conclusion

By embracing transparency, ethical sourcing, and stakeholder engagement, Burberry can navigate the #Burnberry crisis and emerge as a leader in sustainable luxury fashion. This approach will not only address the concerns of consumers and activists but also create a more responsible and sustainable business model for the long term.

7. Discussion

Other Alternatives:

  • Ignoring the concerns: This would damage Burberry's reputation and alienate consumers.
  • Offering minimal changes: This could be perceived as insincere and further erode trust.

Risks and Key Assumptions:

  • Implementation challenges: Implementing these changes requires significant investment and commitment from all stakeholders.
  • Consumer acceptance: Consumers may not fully embrace Burberry's sustainability efforts, requiring ongoing communication and engagement.

Options Grid:

OptionAdvantagesDisadvantages
Embrace SustainabilityImproved reputation, attract new customers, long-term profitabilitySignificant investment, potential for backlash from stakeholders
Minimal ChangesLess disruptive, lower investmentDamage to reputation, loss of consumer trust
Ignore ConcernsShort-term cost savingsLong-term reputational damage, loss of market share

8. Next Steps

  • Immediate Action: Form a task force to implement the short-term recommendations within 3 months.
  • Long-Term Strategy: Develop a comprehensive sustainability strategy within 6 months, including specific goals and timelines.
  • Transparency and Reporting: Publish a detailed sustainability report annually, outlining progress and challenges.
  • Stakeholder Engagement: Host regular forums and dialogues with stakeholders to foster ongoing communication and feedback.

By taking these steps, Burberry can demonstrate its commitment to sustainability and rebuild trust with its stakeholders, positioning itself for long-term success in the evolving luxury fashion landscape.

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Case Description

The principle of building and maintaining a reputation of exclusivity has long been acknowledged as the key to the success of luxury brands. The way these ambitions are realized often remains hidden from the public eye. In June 2018, British luxury brand Burberry faced considerable backlash after news surfaced that the brand had burned excess stock worth GBP28.6m (USD37m) to reportedly safeguard its brand image. Various hashtags circulated, including the viral #Burnberry, publicly calling out the brand for its behavior. The case presents an interesting paradox between a sustainability focus on the one hand, and maintaining exclusivity on the other. Two months after the incident, Burberry gave in to pressure and announced that it would cease its burning practices.

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