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Harvard Case - Chanel 1.5°: A sustainability journey

"Chanel 1.5°: A sustainability journey" Harvard business case study is written by Vanina Farber, Stéphane J G Girod, Martin Kralik. It deals with the challenges in the field of Strategy. The case study is 25 page(s) long and it was first published on : Dec 1, 2021

At Fern Fort University, we recommend Chanel embrace a holistic sustainability strategy that leverages its existing strengths, embraces innovation, and strategically navigates the evolving luxury landscape. This strategy should be anchored in a triple bottom line approach, considering economic, environmental, and social impacts, to achieve sustainable competitive advantage and long-term growth.

2. Background

Chanel, a global luxury brand synonymous with timeless elegance and exclusivity, faces the challenge of navigating the growing consumer demand for sustainability while maintaining its brand image and profitability. The case study highlights Chanel's commitment to reducing its environmental footprint through initiatives like using recycled materials and minimizing waste. However, the company recognizes the need for a more comprehensive and strategic approach to sustainability.

The main protagonists are Bruno Pavlovsky, President of Fashion for Chanel, and his team, who are tasked with developing a strategy to integrate sustainability into Chanel's operations and brand identity.

3. Analysis of the Case Study

Applying a SWOT analysis:

Strengths:

  • Strong brand equity and loyal customer base: Chanel enjoys a strong brand reputation and a loyal customer base willing to pay a premium for its products.
  • Vertical integration: Chanel's control over its supply chain allows for greater control over sustainability practices.
  • Financial resources: Chanel's strong financial position provides resources for investing in sustainable initiatives.
  • Innovation and creativity: Chanel has a long history of innovation and creativity, allowing it to adapt to changing consumer preferences.

Weaknesses:

  • Limited transparency: Chanel's sustainability efforts lack transparency, leading to potential criticism from stakeholders.
  • Potential for greenwashing: The risk of being perceived as engaging in greenwashing exists if sustainability efforts are not genuine and impactful.
  • Limited engagement with stakeholders: Chanel needs to increase its engagement with stakeholders, including suppliers, employees, and consumers, to foster greater understanding and collaboration.

Opportunities:

  • Growing consumer demand for sustainable luxury: Consumers are increasingly demanding sustainable products and brands.
  • Technological advancements: Emerging technologies can support sustainable practices, such as AI for supply chain optimization and blockchain for traceability.
  • Partnerships and collaborations: Chanel can leverage partnerships with other companies and organizations to accelerate sustainability efforts.

Threats:

  • Increased competition from sustainable luxury brands: New entrants and existing brands are focusing on sustainability, creating a more competitive landscape.
  • Regulatory pressure: Governments are implementing stricter regulations regarding environmental and social responsibility.
  • Consumer skepticism: Consumers may be skeptical of brands claiming to be sustainable, requiring transparency and concrete actions.

Applying Porter's Five Forces:

  • Threat of new entrants: High barriers to entry in the luxury market, but sustainable luxury brands are emerging.
  • Bargaining power of buyers: High, as consumers are increasingly demanding sustainable products.
  • Bargaining power of suppliers: Moderate, as Chanel has some control over its supply chain but faces potential pressure from ethical sourcing demands.
  • Threat of substitutes: High, as consumers may opt for more affordable or sustainable alternatives.
  • Rivalry among existing competitors: High, as established luxury brands are competing for sustainable market share.

Value Chain Analysis:

Chanel's value chain can be analyzed to identify areas where sustainability can be integrated:

  • Inbound logistics: Sourcing sustainable materials, optimizing transportation, and collaborating with ethical suppliers.
  • Operations: Implementing sustainable manufacturing processes, reducing waste, and investing in renewable energy.
  • Outbound logistics: Optimizing distribution networks and reducing carbon emissions in transportation.
  • Marketing and Sales: Communicating sustainability efforts transparently, engaging with environmentally conscious consumers, and promoting sustainable product features.
  • Customer service: Providing sustainable packaging, offering repair and recycling options, and fostering sustainable consumption practices.

Business Model Innovation:

  • Circular economy model: Implementing a circular economy model by designing products for durability, reusability, and recyclability, minimizing waste and maximizing resource utilization.
  • Subscription model: Offering subscription services for select products, promoting sustainable consumption by reducing the need for frequent purchases.
  • Product-as-a-Service: Providing products as a service, shifting ownership to usage and promoting sustainable consumption by extending product lifecycles.

4. Recommendations

1. Develop a Comprehensive Sustainability Strategy:

  • Define clear sustainability goals: Set specific, measurable, achievable, relevant, and time-bound (SMART) sustainability goals aligned with Chanel's core values and brand identity.
  • Integrate sustainability across the value chain: Implement sustainable practices across all stages of the value chain, from sourcing to production, distribution, and customer service.
  • Prioritize key areas: Focus on areas with the greatest impact, such as material sourcing, manufacturing processes, and packaging.
  • Develop a transparent reporting framework: Publish regular sustainability reports that clearly communicate progress towards goals and provide evidence-based data.

2. Embrace Innovation and Technology:

  • Invest in sustainable materials and technologies: Explore and implement innovative materials and technologies that reduce environmental impact and enhance product quality.
  • Leverage AI and machine learning: Utilize AI and machine learning for supply chain optimization, demand forecasting, and waste reduction.
  • Adopt blockchain technology: Implement blockchain for traceability and transparency in supply chains, ensuring ethical sourcing and responsible practices.

3. Enhance Stakeholder Engagement:

  • Engage with suppliers: Collaborate with suppliers to implement sustainable practices and ensure ethical sourcing.
  • Empower employees: Train employees on sustainability practices and encourage their participation in sustainability initiatives.
  • Connect with consumers: Communicate sustainability efforts transparently and engage with consumers through social media and other channels.
  • Partner with NGOs and industry groups: Collaborate with NGOs and industry groups to share knowledge, learn from best practices, and advocate for sustainable policies.

4. Leverage Brand Power for Sustainable Advocacy:

  • Promote sustainable consumption: Encourage consumers to adopt sustainable practices through campaigns and initiatives.
  • Partner with influencers and celebrities: Collaborate with influencers and celebrities to promote sustainable living and raise awareness about environmental issues.
  • Support sustainable causes: Donate to or sponsor organizations working on environmental conservation and social justice.

5. Basis of Recommendations

These recommendations are based on the following considerations:

  • Core competencies and consistency with mission: The recommendations align with Chanel's core competencies in luxury design, innovation, and brand management, while promoting a sustainable business model consistent with the brand's values.
  • External customers and internal clients: The recommendations address the growing demand for sustainable products from consumers and internal stakeholders, fostering a culture of sustainability within the organization.
  • Competitors: The recommendations position Chanel as a leader in sustainable luxury, differentiating the brand from competitors and attracting environmentally conscious consumers.
  • Attractiveness ' quantitative measures: The recommendations aim to generate long-term value by reducing costs, improving efficiency, and enhancing brand image, potentially leading to increased revenue and profitability.

Assumptions:

  • Consumers are willing to pay a premium for sustainable luxury products.
  • Technological advancements will continue to support sustainable practices.
  • Stakeholders are willing to engage in collaborative efforts to promote sustainability.

6. Conclusion

By embracing a holistic sustainability strategy, Chanel can solidify its position as a leader in the evolving luxury market. By leveraging its brand power, embracing innovation, and engaging with stakeholders, Chanel can achieve sustainable competitive advantage, drive long-term growth, and contribute to a more sustainable future.

7. Discussion

Alternatives not selected:

  • Outsourcing sustainability efforts: While outsourcing certain aspects of sustainability could be considered, it may compromise control over practices and transparency.
  • Focusing solely on product development: While product development is crucial, a comprehensive approach across the value chain is essential for achieving true sustainability.

Risks and key assumptions:

  • Consumer acceptance: The assumption that consumers are willing to pay a premium for sustainable luxury products may not hold true for all segments.
  • Technological advancements: The reliance on technological advancements may not materialize as expected, requiring flexibility and adaptability.
  • Regulatory changes: Unforeseen regulatory changes could impact sustainability efforts and require adjustments to the strategy.

8. Next Steps

  • Develop a detailed action plan: Outline specific actions, timelines, and responsible parties for implementing the recommendations.
  • Pilot sustainable initiatives: Test and refine sustainable practices in specific areas before scaling them across the organization.
  • Establish a sustainability governance structure: Create a dedicated team or committee to oversee sustainability efforts and ensure accountability.
  • Monitor progress and adapt: Regularly track progress towards sustainability goals and make adjustments to the strategy as needed.

By taking these steps, Chanel can effectively navigate the evolving luxury landscape and achieve its sustainability goals, securing its position as a leader in the sustainable luxury market.

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Case Description

In a short span of five or six years, CHANEL embraced CSR (corporate social responsibility) and ESG (environmental, social, governance) initiatives that stretched far beyond its established comfort zone of artistic direction and creative output. The progression of these initiatives culminated in March 2020, when the company launched CHANEL Mission 1.5°, a strategy for embarking on a decarbonization journey across the business as well as the value chain. In keeping with the timeframe of the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), the "1.5°" represented the commitment to help limit average global mean temperature increases to 1.5 degrees Celsius above pre-industrial levels. Entering the 2020s, Global CFO Philippe Blondiaux felt confident that CHANEL was primed to execute on its vision and usher in a "decade of delivery" in sustainability. The Group was about to transform every aspect of its business; help its partners do the same; innovate at every point in the value chain; and support change beyond its own operational footprint. Yet a host of challenges loomed on the road ahead: (1) Could an industrial group that was highly decentralized continue to spearhead initiatives and shape an integrated sustainability strategy? (2) In addition to creating a cultural glue and a shared sense of inspiration and purpose, could accountability trickle all the way down the organization with a worldwide workforce of nearly 28,000? (3) In the long term, was the company in a position to live up to the commitments it had encapsulated in the CHANEL Mission 1.5° document, and was there sufficient clarity on what the sustainability push would mean in the long run for CHANEL, as a luxury brand, as we know it?

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